PROJECTS

that you may want to try for your shack

(Click Pictures for full size view)

THE "DZE (DIZZY) BOX"

I have a number of keys/paddles/bugs and several rigs, and I like to swap the keys among the different rigs. Since most key jacks are in the back of the rigs, it was a real hassle to plug/unplug keys as I changed setups. I decided I wanted a way to easily swap various keys with various rigs so, I came up with a simple control box that consists of switches to let me connect any of 6 keys/paddles/bugs to any of up to 4 rigs. I call it my “Dizzy Box” or “DZE Box”. To gather the parts, I ordered the inexpensive triple pole switches, cables with plugs, and some mini jacks for the box from the internet. I used a Radio Shack project box that I had on hand. Quite a few solder joints and a few hours later I had a neat CW key switching device that is really enjoyable to use!

Operation is simple. Starting with all switches down (off), I simply flip the switch on the top row up to select the key to be used and then do the same on the bottom row to select the rig to be used. This connects them together. I can select more than one key/paddle/bug for the current rig by simple switching it on, however the circuit will not allow more than one rig to be “on” at any one time.

Schematic for a "DZE Box"

Notes:

I used a plastic project box for ease of construction, but any box will work fine.
You can use any type of switches to do the job for you to include LED lighted switches, push button switches, rotary switches or rocker switches. I chose inexpensive toggle switches.
You can change the number of switches to cover the number of keys/paddles/bugs you want to use. Do the same with the number of rigs that you have you want to use.
You could connect all your keys in parallel and eliminate all the key switches, but I preferred not to have all the keys “live” on the desk at one time. It is simply a matter of preference.
I used 3-connector mini-plugs for the rig plugs since all my QRP rigs have this kind of CW key jack. For my 2 rigs that use a 1/4" plug, I simply use a 1/8" to 1/4" adaptor. You can change this around to meet your requirements.
Use a good quality wire to connect the switches so it will solder easily and not require you to overheat any pin connection while soldering the wire in place. I used a sturdy coated magnet wire which was easy to clean for soldering and easy to run from switch to switch. (There were no less than 72 solder joints on this project, so I made it as easy as I could!)
I mounted the plastic project box on a wide wood base just to give it stability and improve the looks (see info on this as the next project below). Depending on what box you use, you may not need or desire to do this.
Parts: (10) Mini 3PDT Toggle Switches ON-ON, (6) 3 conductor jacks for key inputs on back of box, (2) prewired 3 conductor 6’-10’ cables with a mini-plug on each end. (Cut these cables in half to make (4) cables to go from box to rigs). Misc. Magnet wire or wire of your choice and a 6”x4” project box. This is used to wire up the switches.
The 2 jacks shown on the front of the DZE BOX at the bottom right of the photo are blanks for future use. These can be wired to let you connect a “new key” to be tested with any rig, connect a new QRP rig with any key, connect a code practice oscillator with any key for teaching CW, or....

A PRE-FINISHED BASE FOR YOUR CW KEY AND OTHER PROJECTS

The picture above shows the "DZE BOX" discussed in the section above mounted on a finished cherry base rather than the black base originally shown n the first picture. This cherry base was purchased ready made and finished for only 78 cents! I got it in a local area Lowes' Home Improvement Store in the Flooring Department. I happened to notice it on display and immediately thought what a nice base it would make for mounting CW keys. Lowes sells these finished boards as laminate floor samples and they come in a wide range of colors and finishes. Sizes also vary. Prices range from $1 to $2 with some as low as 55 cents when they are on sale or closeout.

Most samples have tongue and groove ends so you may want to trim this off, but it only take a minute to do so. Sand off the ends and sides and then use a permanent marker pen to color the sides black, brown, oak, or whatever color you may choose. You can add rubber feet to the base if you wish, but many of the samples I saw had a rubberized backing that was fine for desk top use.

You can see from the picture that it has a nice, attractive finish. I found these items worked very nicely for key bases and other projects such as the "DZE BOX". Check these out at your area Lowes' or other similar store.

SETTING UP A TAPE RECORDER FOR YOUR SHACK

Have you ever heard something on the air that was really interesting and you wished you had recorded it for you personal files? I know I surely have! This was the subject of an article I did for World Radio Magazine in the February 2010 issue. It was entitled Boy, I Wished I Had Recorded That and it discussed this topic in some detail covering what you can do with a recorder in the Shack, what equipment might work best for you, how to connect a recorder, and some tips on using the new set up. Rather than rewrite the gist of article here, you might want to go to the World Radio Magazine site and check out the original article. You can find it at: http://www.worldradiomagazine.com/wro_issues/2010/WRO_0210_12-24.pdf or go to www.worldradiomagazine.com and look for the FEB 20210 issue. A number of back issues are on file and provide some interesting reading on a wealth of subjects in a high quality format with color pictures that you can read right on your computer. (The picture above is a Sony TC-WR350 dual deck recorder I use in my shack.)

PVC TRANSPORT TUBES FOR HAMSTICKS - Transporting your unprotected Hamstick, MFJ, Outbacker or similar antenna in the back of the car, van, or truck is a "guaranteed recipe" for getting it damaged. You can easily and quickly make transport cases for your antennas using some PVC tube/pipe, end caps, and a piece of foam pipe insulation. The cost is minimal and the protection is great. Here is how to make (2) PVC transport cases:

PARTS: (1) 10' section of PVC tube/pipe 1.5" in diameter.

(2) Glue-on PVC end caps for 1.5" PVC tube.

(2) Screw-on end caps and (2) matching glue-on threaded adaptors for 1.5" PVC tube.

(1) 10' length of foam pipe insulation.

(4) Medium sized 1.5" felt stick-on pads for chair/table legs.

(1) Can of General Purpose PVC cement.

Here is the general idea to put each transport case together for a Hamstick type antenna. I recommend you read all the way through this again just before you start to cut and glue:

Cut a PVC tube to fit the length of the Hamstick (with antenna tip removed!). NOTE: IF you use a 'quick disconnect' for your mount and whip, make sure you allow for this extra length when you cut the tube! Measure twice...cut once!
Put a self sticking felt pad on the inside of the glue-on cap and one on the inside of the screw-on cap. This will protect the antenna from hitting the two ends as it slides back and forth inside the tube.
Cement the glue-on end cap on one end of the tube.
With the screw-on cap removed, cement the screw-on adaptor on the other end of the tube...DO NOT screw the cap on the adaptor before, during, or after this step for about 10 minutes. This will let the PVC cement dry completely, less you wind up getting the screw-on cap cemented in place. If you do get glue on the cap and it touches the threads, it will bond instantly and permanently and you will have to start all over with new materials.
Insert the foam pipe insulation in the PVC tube and cut it to fit the length of the tube you just made.
After checking to INSURE there is no wet PVC cement on the screw-on threads or the end cap, screw on the end cap to see how it all fits. That's it! This completes the construction of your transport tube.

NOTES:

Using a permanent marking pen, mark on the tube side and the screw-on end cap what band each tube is for such as "40 M, 20 M", etc. This helps you find the right antenna fast.
Mark your Hamstick antenna tips for the band and length to insert them as they look alike. White tape wrapped around your antenna tip will show you how far to insert your tips into the shafts for each antenna. Write the band on the tape.
You can also paint your transport tubes, but if you do, be sure and use PVC approved paint or the paint will likely flake off since most regular paints won't adhere to PVC. Camouflage paint looks sharp, but it can also help you lose a tube or end cap in the field if you set it down... instead, consider using a bright color paint such as orange (!) or leave them white and add decals all over them, write your callsign and name on the tube, etc...
Do not glue the transport tubes directly together to make a cluster for carrying as it makes the screw on end caps hard to screw on/off. If you have 2 or 3 transport tubes and intend to always carry them together, you might consider placing a couple of 4"-6" pieces of scrap 1" or 2" PVC tubing between the transport tubes and use PVC cement to glue these in place to make the tubes into a 'cluster' for ease of transport.
A discarded shoulder strap, sling, or web strap from a sports bag, etc., makes a good carrying sling or carrying handle.
As always in Ham Radio, add, delete, change, or modify these ideas to suit your needs.

(This project appeared in OCT '09, pg 60, 'Hints and Kinks' section of QST).

Shown above are (2) pictures of a Hamstick Transport Tube for 15 meters painted blue, and a 40 meter tube in white. (Yes, my 20 meter tube is red. Hi) These pictures show the glue-on end fitting for the screw-on cap, the screw-on cap to the left in the first picture (note the inserted felt pad), the foam pipe insulation (pulled out for you to see), and the Hamstick shaft and tip also pulled out. These make very rugged transport tubes for your valuable antennas and these are inexpensive, fast, and very easy to make. Picture #3 shows quick disconnects used with the Hamsticks for easy antenna change over.

TRIPOD MOUNTED HAMSTICKS - I had always wanted to try a small tripod mounted whip for QRP just to see how it worked for short duration, portable operation. Finally, I made a version of this setup using a discarded photo tripod with a Lakeview # 081 Tri Mount attached at the top of the tripod. I also made another version using a satellite dish tripod with a short piece of antenna support mast added to give it a bit more height . This latter version used a home brew right angle bracket held on the tripod with a pipe clamp. A 3/8" aluminum plate was bolted onto the right angle bracket and the antenna mount was then added to hold the antenna similar to the Lakeview #081 Tri Mount. A bolt and wing nut was added to the plate to attach the counterpoise. I use Hamstick antennas, but other antennas such as an Outbacker should work well in a similar fashion.

A basic addition to the tripod mounted Hamstick is to use at least one 20'-25' long 1/2" braid as a counterpoise. (Two or three such counterpoises are even better.) These connect on the antenna mounting bracket itself to a mounting screw. You can also put a Banana plug (male/female) on the mount and counterpoise for fast connect/disconnect. In my experience, I have noted that failure to use a good counterpoise will likely result in you talking to yourself most of the time! I use a carefully measured Hamstick that is set for the exact frequency to be used (I use the QRP CW calling freqs as a my base frequency). I have Hamsticks for 40, 20, and 15 meters. Set your antenna up clear of nearby objects if you are on a condo deck, in a yard, on top of a picnic table, etc. I have only used my set up on CW, and I have found it will definitely work! My very first try with the tripod and antenna was when I set it up on my living room coffee table with a single counterpoise stretched out across the floor. Using an FT-817 on CW, I called a K6 in California and my 5 watts got me a QSO and a 559 on 40 meters. Nothing to write home about, but I must admit that considering what I was using and where I was using it, I sort of made me feel like I was using a spy rig! Hi!

While certainly not the best portable set up you might use, these do work when you need a very fast, small footprint system or you don't have trees for supports. Of course these are extremely portable and stealthy too.

TRIPOD/HAMSTICK NOTES:

Use a short coax run to your rig.
Use 1-3 counterpoises for better results.
Pre-adjust and mark your Hamstick for your operation frequency for a quick set up with a known low SWR.
Watch for little (or big!) hands and feet touching the antenna or getting tangled on the counterpoise(s) when you set up.
For outside use, consider securing the tripod base. A small bungee cord from the bottom center of the tripod to the deck, table, or the ground to keep the tripod blowing or tipping over. You can attach the other end of the bungee cord to anything heavy or use a small screw-in-the-ground anchor. I also found a 20 penny nail pushed in the ground will work as a good anchor for this use.
To hold the tripod legs together for transport, use a length of Velcro strip or a small tie down bungee cord.
Make some PVC tube transport cases for your antennas to avoid transport damage (see Hamstick Transport Tube article above).

The pictures show a camera tripod with the Lakeview #081 antenna mount and an antenna fast disconnect attached. Note the small bolts/nuts on each leg of the tripod on the left. The friction locks had broken and would not hold the legs, so it had been discarded. I got it out of the trash and put bolts through the legs to recycle it into a neat antenna mount!

A PORTABLE HAM SHACK FOR FIELD DAY - If you have ever spent any time in the field, you have likely run into a having a cold wind, a light rain or just the night dew become a nuisance. If you are operating a rig in the field, these issues become more than just nuisances, and REALLY become something you need to avoid. An idea that I came up with for my Amateur Astronomy efforts was a Portable Observatory based on a small, inexpensive pop-up tent normally used as a portable shower or privy! I also found that this same set up works just as nicely as a Portable Ham Shack! The little tent I use for astronomy holds a 4' x 2' folding table which is a nice size operating table for a rig, key, logbook, laptop, LED desk light, etc.

With this in mind, look at my ASTRONOMY page under the section called A PORTABLE OBSERVATORY and as you read this section think of it being used for Ham Radio field operations rather than for astronomy. It is inexpensive (~$60), easy to set up (just toss it out and it pops open!), and it is very portable. Maybe this would work as well for your QRP set up in the field?

(This project appeared in JUN '10, pg 58, 'Hints and Kinks' section of QST).